Atari Jaguar Kiosk with Arcade Controls and Rotary Spinner

A look at my Atari Jaguar store display kiosk and the arcade control panel I built for it. Includes footage of Tempest 2000, Ruiner Pinball and BattleSphere gold. Hit “Show more” for instructions to build your own:

Here’s how to build your own arcade controls/rotary spinner for the Jaguar. I substituted this rotary encoder from mouser in place of the Atari 2600 driving controller listed below:

“Competition” joystick and pushbuttons came from Suzo-Happ:

From the Atari Jaguar FAQ, posted to one of the related newsgroups, comes this writeup on building a spinner control from an Atari 2600 driving controller. This could probably be adapted to the PC world, particularly with the many options for interfacing Atari joysticks and such to PCs via the parallel or joystick ports. I’m reprinting it sans editing so some of the information obviously won’t apply.
Subject: FAQ: Atari Jaguar Frequently-Asked Questions
Q. What’s this about a rotary controller? What games use it? How do I makeone for myself?

A. TEMPEST 2000 has hidden in it an option for a rotary controller (at the”Game Options” menu, press Pause on both controllers to activate the “Controller Type”). No plans for an official Atari rotary controller were announced, but many TEMPEST fans have been trying to build such a controller, to give the game a feel that’s close to its arcade original.

Andy Light has written instructions for taking a Jaguar joypad and an Atari 2600 Driving Controller and building a rotary controller with the parts. His instructions are condensed below. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE ASSEMBLY — there are some areas that are left to the whim of the builder, and advance planning is highly recommended.

* * *

Parts needed: Atari Jaguar controller
Atari 2600 Driving Controller (NOT the paddles)
13 wires, preferably of separate colors
A board or box or shell to mount everything on/in

1. Open the driving controller by removing the two underside screws.Inside is a top-like device or a grey box with three wires coming out of it. This is the encoder. Pull the driving controller’s knob off the encoder’s shaft, then remove the encoder by unscrewing the nut that holds it in place. Disconnect the wires from the encoder.

2. Open the Jaguar controller. There are four screws on the bottom holding it together, behind the round rubber pads. Inside the controller are two circuit boards connected by a ribbon of wires. The bottom board is for the numeric keypad and is held by two screws. Remove the screws and take out the keypad.

3. Disconnect the wire ribbon from the keypad by melting the solder. CAREFUL! This is delicate work — get help if you need it. Solder the thirteen wires where the ribbon connection was; do not confuse them.

4. From the left side of the board (the side that says “P2”), I’ve numbered the wires as follows:

1) Common 5) Button A 9) Button C 13) Down
2) Right 6) Button B 10) Pause
3) Option 7) Button B 11) Up
4) Option 8) Button C 12) Left

5. On the encoder, connect wire #1 to the center terminal, #2 to the right terminal, and #12 to the left terminal. The rotary part of the controller is now finished.

6. How to connect the other controls is up to you. I’m using arcade buttons, a thumb pad, and a switch (to toggle joypad or rotary control)mounted in an Atari 5200 trak-ball controller case. You can mount a joystick, extra buttons, or other features for your own controller. Buttons and empty control boxes are available at stores such as Radio Shack.

Wiring for the other signals are as follows:

Up – wires #1 and #11 Button A – wires #1 and #5
Down – wires #1 and #13 Button B – wires #6 and #7
Pause – wires #1 and #10 Button C – wires #8 and #9
Option – wires #3 and #4

Because wire #1 has multiple uses, you will either need to string it or split it for each destination.

7. Reassemble and mount everything according to your design. For better spin, you can glue lead fishing sinkers to the inside of the knob, andlubricate the shaft of the encoder with light oil or silicone lubricant.

That’s it! Please forgive me for any mistakes in my grammer, terminology, spelling, etc. If you encounter any problems, feel free to e-mail me at ALIGHT55@AOL.COM. Good luck

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